Replacing stringer questions

well, you don't really want to cushion them because the hull can flex under them. It is best to have full contact to the boat bottom. You can use any good marine epoxy, or Urethane glue to bed them. Urethane is nice because it exspands as it sets and it's hard as nails when set.

But before you put them in, try to dress the stringers so they contact the hull evenly. When you put them in, put a nice bed of the epoxy or urethane glue on the hull, place the stringers while the glue is wet and place something heavy on top of the stringers to hold them down to the hull tight while the glue setts up. (concrete blocks work good). You may have to put some temporary wood across the top of the stringers to hold them upright and as a place to set the weights for drying.

If you use Urethane glue, remember that it will expand as the water catalyzes it, which is nice. Urethane glue uses water as the catalyst, so just wet both surfaces down well before putting the glue down. I use a brush to spread it out. If you use Urethane,  there will be excess glue that will expand out, just cut or grind it out if the way where needed. The easiest way to control the exspanding glue is to clean it up as it sets for the first 1 to 2 hours. Just wipe it up with a rag.
Where do you get urathene glue.. one brand name is monkey glue.

After the glue or epoxy is set, at least 24 hours, Then start glassing the stringers to the bottom of the boat - before removing the weights. It is important to get the mat soaked with resin and get the air bubbles out as you work the glass. Also pay attention to any angles that they do not have air under the glass. Air pockets are a weakness. And pockets of resin are a weakness as well, the resin is no good with out the glass.

Thanks Dave.....I would have thought something for a "shock absorber" would be needed since getting the new stringers to fit perfectly is almost impossible.

I'll use the same epoxy/resin I use for the fiberglassing if that's ok. I bougth a 2 part resin (resin and wax) and will use it without the wax to set the stringers then fiberglass all down to hull if this is ok to do.

Thanks again.

The problem with a cushion is when the boat is crashing waves and the fiber glass hull is flexing in the cushion, it will break the glass and resin bond around the stringers. The stringers are the base of the boat that holds the hull in place. It should be a solid connection to the hull.

You can use the fiberglass and resin together, but resin alone is not the way. If doing that, lay out mat on the hull, and wrap mat around the bottom of the stringers. Then soak both parts with resin and put them in while all is wet. You have to work fast, because once the resin hardens, it won't bond. You can use some temporary staples to hold the mat in place on the stringers while you get them in place.

lol. I am an animal with my boats and have broke just about every part of a boat.. just my wild abuse. I have a checkmate here that I broke.. Cracked the side of hull from the rub rail down about a foot. lol. abuse? I guess..

Another tip, I use a right angle grinder to dress the hull before doing any glass work. This will cut the surface and make the hull rough as to provide a better bond and a surface that the new resin and glass will grab.

yes, it's all caps as in 'yelling'. Air pockets are BAD. They will weaken the best of work. Do everything you can to eliminate them, even if you have excess resin running out of the joint, just wipe it up.

When the stringers are in place and the glass is set.

If You have a place that has a void, dab some water in the void and put a small amount of urethane glue in the void and it will expand in the void and harden.

There are some combing compounds available for doing it, but the urethane glue does work very well.

OK...advice well taken and shall be followed.

I've removed half of the stringers and won't replace the other ones till I fiberglass in the new stringers.....just doing it the hard way I guess and trying to keep the bottom of the hull as straight as possible. I'm "dressing out" as you call it...(I call it grinding) the uppermost layer of surrounding fiberglass as I remove each damaged stringer.

I owned a small CheckMate ski boat many many moons ago....was only a 13' and lotsa fun....and I too am a need for speed type. The faster the better. I even tried going into open sea (Gulf of Mexico) to go fish a island 35 miles out...talk about DUMB....yeah....I screamed at myself when the engine broke down and we found ourselves paddling for 12 hours just to get into safety. I was young and dumb and now I guess I'm juss ole 'n 'tupid.

Thanks

Watch out Monkey Glue I'm looking atcha. ..........QQ- - -

Damn monkeys are on strike and not making their glue these days....guess I'll have to use their relative's glue....Gorilla glue !!!! (Hope this is actually what you meant)

You should have a quick look at the trailer and make sure nothing is pushing the bottom of the boat 'up' or out of natural shape. If it is, jack up the back to relieve the pressure.

The monkey glue is a brand name, just look for Urethane. And the weird part is, the catalyst is water. No need ti mix it, just make the surfaces real wet and dump it on, bush it around. And babysit the stuff as it expands.

Monkeys are cute, but not real reliable.. lol

One of my 6 boats is a checkmate 14 foot cobra with a 90 hp outboard, runs 72 mph, if you can drive it. I have the engine set at 28" transom height with a 10" setback on a jack plate.

14 foot checkmate cobra..

Nice little speedster you have....reminds me of my ole 13 footer of over 30 years ago. <sighs> My little demon on water had the fuel tank mid ship behind the bench seat....seems yours is the same. How do you like sitting back to back to a fuel tank....kinda spooky as I remember with mine....but it never stopped me from enjoying the boat to the max.

I made a few calls around to hardwares and even paint suppliers locally and seems none have a clue to Monkey glue. Would Gorilla glue be the same as per holding power and expansion ?

Sorry about that, i should have more xaxct... sorry, gorilla glue is the same, Urathane...

Look at a new forum(show off your boat), i put my fast one in there...

The checkmate has the gas tank in the nose.

Well after cutting out fiberglass cladding around the stringers and removing the rotted plywood I figured I should test drill the transom (from the inside) and as expected....that plywood sandwich was shot too (water came oozing out my test holes). I got the gimbal and sterndrive completely removed,cut around the perimiter of the transom and chiseled and scraped the rotted plywood out. Using a 4" grinder with sandpaper completely sanded the interior surface of the transoms fiberglass and got that looking new. When I replace the transom plywood what is best to use for sandwiching the plywood together and what's best to adhere the plywood to the fiberglass transom.

Thanks all

Looks like a change in repair topics.

post has been copied to start a new thread.

http://buckeyelake.org/forum/transom-repair-questions